The 2019 Ao Yun is seriously impressive. Bright, fresh and vibrant in the glass, the 2019 is a wine of energy more than size. Crushed red berry fruit, blood orange, mint, cinnamon, cedar and sweet pipe tobacco are all finely cut in this mid-weight, Cabernet Sauvignon-based red. In 2019 the blend is 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Cabernet Franc, 10% Syrah and 6% Petit Verdot from the villages of Shuori, Xidang, Adong and Sinong, aged in 35% new oak, 35% once-filled barrels and 30% stone jarres. It’s a fine effort from the team led by Technical Director Maxence Dulou, a Bordeaux native who spent time in Chile, South Africa and several prestigious Bordeaux châteaux (including Cheval Blanc, Le Tour de Pin and Quinault L’Enclos) before moving with his young family to China in 2013 to head this ambitious project for LVMH. 2024-2034
Very scented, complex and layered with a classy nose full of ripe currants, smoke and sweet tobacco leaves. Graphite, charcoal, exotic herbs and cigar box. A hint of black truffle and tapenade, too. Full body with fine, silky tannins that highlight the juicy aspect of this wine. Dusty tannins gradually build up on the palate in a crescendo, following through to a juicy, precise and lengthy finish. Super-polished and refined. There is still cabernet verticality on the palate. The finest Ao Yun so far? It has a finish that lasts almost two minutes. 67% cabernet sauvignon, 17% cabernet franc, 10% syrah and 6% petit verdot. This is a blend of 23% of Xidang village, 21% Sinong, 32% Shuori and 24% Adong. Already drinkable now, but should hold until 2026.