Barolo Acclivi, Comm. G.B. Burlotto 2017

The 2017 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Acclivi is a classic Barolo - a blend of the best plots of Verduno. It has a deep aromatic core of ripe raspberry and strawberry fruit, heady with a light smoke note that comes and goes. It is richer and less floral than the 2018. It has a gorgeous texture and weight, poised between rich, silky hedonistic pleasure and lithe brightness. It achieves just the right balance and is incredibly harmonious on the palate. Terroir is hugely important, but this wine is so deftly and gently done it does make me think that the hand of the winemaker is paramount.